Wardrobe Rework Commission, pt 1
A new client commissioned me to rework 4 garments in their wardrobe. Follow along as I work on 2 of the pieces: brainstorming ideas, navigating the hurdles, sewing, and the final results!
REWORK MENU
I’m in need of a pithy elevator pitch for what I do. I develop rework ideas, I post mini-tutorials so the curious can use these (sometimes practical, sometimes wacky) ideas to refresh their wardrobe, and I sell a small collection of my reworked designs to shops and on my site. But I also offer rework services. I have a Rework Menu on my website of available options (culled from all this R & D), but I encourage folks to reach out if they have a specific customization to pitch. No promises, but I try to at least give feedback, potential options, or alternate routes to pursue.
I realize that reaching out to a stranger with your well-worn clothes and ambitious ideas might seem daunting, but I live for personalized projects like this! We nail down the challenges and issues that keep them from reaching for that piece, and brainstorm ways their style references can dovetail with possible solutions. I love design through problem-solving! I find so much more creativity in restrictions. I especially love when a client entrusts me with several garments and we can get all Gestalt.
Here are 2 out of 4 wardrobe reworks I just completed for a chic new client. The before, the challenge, the solution, the process, and the after. Look for my post on the other 2 projects next week.
Garment #1: cream raw silk shorts
Issue: 1-2” too snug at the waist.
Request: She requested I insert a strip of black, red or blue fabric at the side seams.
Considerations: The fabric I insert must be the same weight/thickness as the shorts fabric or the end result could turn out warped. The fabric is textured, so I may want to find a textured fabric as well. Maintain access to the side pockets. Will I need to remove the lining?
Solution: I knew the fabric had to match the thickness/weight of the shorts fabric, and I happened to have some red raw silk that was a perfect texture match.
Process: When I opened up the side seams, the fabric started to unravel immediately since it was an open-weave, so I serged all the edges right away. I cut the strips about 3” longer than needed (taking into account the extra already needed for the hem and waistband lining) and about 1.75 - 2” thick (for 1”-wide stripe + 1/4-3/8” seam allowances). I serged the edges of the fabric strips as well to prevent fraying. I sewed the strips to the sides of the shorts and used topstitching when necessary to make the stripes lay flat. Loosening the tension helped prevent warping and adding fusible interfacing on the strip near the waistband added stability. Luckily, the lining was pleated so I was able to hand-sew that back in place.
Result: The fabric matched so well it looked like the shorts had always had these side stripes! And now the shorts are 2” fuller through the waist and hips, so they’ll have a better fit.
Garment #2: black silk blouse
Request: She asked about one of my most popular reworks, the glove appliqué. But rather than cloth gloves, she requested leather gloves.
Considerations: I would need a leather glove as soft and thin as possible, so as not to make the blouse droop or warp when the gloves are sewn on. Also, since steam is anathema to kid leather (it instantly shrinks up and hardens in the craziest way), the care instructions for the blouse could get tricky.
Solution: I ran a test by sewing thin scrap leather to a scrap of silk, which came out great. I suggested she only spot clean or spray with vodka to deodorize, and turn off the steam when ironing.
Process: I found a pair of black leather gloves that were made of extremely thin, soft leather and sewed them to the blouse in the same way I appliqué cloth gloves.
Result: The contrast of the textures looked fabulous! I might have to add this option to my Rework Menu.
To be continued (next week)...
Does an item in your closet need an update, a small tweak, or an upsize? You can peruse my Rework Menu here to get some ideas and price estimates (I have a mail-in option as well). Or just message me about your garment and any project ideas.
